from The New York Times
April 7, 2010
by Sam Sifton
Jean-Claude Izzo wrote a terrific series of French noir novels, a Marseille trilogy of sun-baked bad guys and beautiful women, smart cops and mean situations. Mr. Izzo was a marvelous food writer in addition to being a poet of violence and regret. His
books are filled with winning descriptions of Provençal meals run through with the flavors of north Africa, Italy, Greece. Also, violence. Of life in Marseille, Mr. Izzo wrote, “Even to lose, you have to know how to fight.”
Mr. Izzo died 10 years ago, but he could have been writing about cooking, and in particular about cooking in New York restaurants, circa 2010. He could have recalled the line over dinner at Faustina, which the phenomenally talented chef Scott Conant opened in February on the ground floor of the Cooper Square Hotel, in the space that had been Table 8.
Read Sam Sifton's Article on NYTimes.com
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Jean-Claude Izzo, the
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